Timeline: Modern Fashion, 1858-1920

Englishman Charles Worth establishes first haute couture fashion house in Paris

Paul Poiret establishes fashion house; creates harem pants; first couturier to launch perfume, "Rosina"

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel opens boutique in Deauville, France; revolutionizes and democratizes women's fashion with tailored suits, chain-belted jerseys, quilted handbags; the most copied fashion designer in history

World War I prompts women to work in factories, offices; women wear pants; military cut influences clothes

Circa 1920

Women participate in sports, prompting new styles, including the "flapper"

Early 20s

Madeleine Vionnet creates flowing, feminine clothes, including the chiffon handkerchief dress; creates cowl neck, halter top; sets trends in 1930s

Mid 20s

Popularity of rayon causes decline in use of cotton

1926

Knee-length hemlines mark new high

Late 20s

Elsa Schiaparelli opens Paris boutique; pioneers use of zippers, shoulder pads, unusual buttons; favors bright colors, including "shocking pink"